Picture of Elizabeth Concrete Foundations

Elizabeth Concrete Foundations

Effective Concrete Repair

To ensure that concrete repairs are long-lasting and effective, here are seven simple steps.

Hand tools are sufficient for the majority of modest concrete repairs. We recommend following the simple seven-step approach outlined below to guarantee that the work is done safely, at a high standard, and to last.


Use only clean, drinkable water, clean and well-maintained tools; remove only concrete as instructed by a supervisory officer or competent engineer; examine product data sheets before beginning. Don’t mix different products’ powders, add more water than the instructions allow, or mix and apply the product in direct sunlight.

First to prepare the concrete repair area’s substrate.
Make a mark on the damaged concrete and then take it out in sections based on the extent of the problem. A hammer and chisel will typically enough for small patch repairs. A hammer drill can be used for smaller regions, while a high-pressure water jet can be used for bigger areas. Behind the main bars, you must remove a minimum of 155mm of concrete. To avoid debonding around the edges, cut the side at a minimum of 90° and a maximum of 135°. Before moving ahead, make sure the foundation is solid and there is no loose material. If there are any cracks in the substrate, notify a supervisor immediately.

Next, you need to have your reinforcements ready.
Be sure to get rid of any and all loose materials such as tie wires, mortar/concrete, rust/scale, etc. Getting rid of it is as simple as choosing one of three methods: Hand or power tools with steel wire bristles are the only methods that can be used in carbonated concrete and under certain climatic conditions, preventing the use of methods 2 or 3. In the case of chloride contamination, the reinforcement should be cleansed with water following abrasive blast cleaningWater jetting at a minimum pressure of 1,100 bar

Step 3: Corrosion Protection Reinforcement
Apply two coats of 1mm thick. Wait until the first coat has dried completely before adding a second. Before applying repair mortar, wait for the application to dry. A hopper spray can be used to apply corrosion protection to broad areas, or a brush can be used to apply it to smaller areas. Make use of two brushes at the same time in this case to ensure that all of the paint is applied behind the bars.

Step 4. Bonding Primer is the fourth step (if specified)
Using a sponge for tiny sections and air pressure for larger ones, dampen the substrate first before wiping away any remaining water. A brush, or hopper gun, can be used to put on priming coats. Point the cannon at various angles on different surfaces to ensure even application behind bars.

The substrate should be wetted in step four if a bonding primer has not been used. When making repairs by hand, use a trowel or your hands to push the repair mortar firmly into the damaged area. The product’s maximum layer thickness may be reached by applying a second layer after the first has dried. Finish with a trowel after profiling the surface. When it comes time to apply the finishing touches, use a wooden or PVC trowel. Do not squirt any more water on the surface of it. Point the nozzle 200-500 millimeters away from the surface if you’re doing a spray repair. For optimal results, use a wooden or PVC trowel to apply the final coat of varnish. Fill in any gaps that may exist behind the plexiglass. Surfaces that require additional layers should not be overly smooth.

Smoothing Mortar is the sixth and last step.
Using water, moisten and scrub the surface (180 bar). Using a toothed trowel, move vertically over the mortar to smooth it out. At a 45-degree angle to the surface, the trowel should be positioned. Apply a second coating when the first one is too hard. After the product has cured (anything from 25 minutes to 4 hours), use a wooden trowel to smooth the surface.

And the last step:
The fix will be shielded from the elements when it has cured. To avoid surface cracking, apply as soon as feasible after application. Plastic sheeting, fabric, and water of different membranes can be used for curing. The alternative would be to employ an approved curing agent if a subsequent coating is not required.

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